I’ve Been Published in Tokyo
Remember my visit to Tokyo? Remember the fun fish photos from Tsukiji Fish Market? I remember our awesome sushi breakfast and the spastic Tuna auctioneer you will see on just about any video footage taken at the market. For years the Tokyo Metro Government has been at odds about what to do with the popularity of the Fish Market, especially the Tuna Auction. Time and again the crowds become too large and disruptive that the authorities shut it off to the public. Tourists in the Tsukiji Fish Market are like tourists anywhere. They are slow, they do not pay attention and they are always in the wrong place. Think of that mini-van making an ill advised u-turn in Orlando, that tourist staring up with their camera at NYC skyscrapers in the middle of the sidewalk, that family who stops dead-center in the middle of the subway exit looking down at a map. Tsukiji Fish Market sees these same tourist characteristics from their visitors: snapping photos (guilty), standing in the wrong place at the wrong time (guilty), running into people (guilty), cramming too many people into too small an area (guilty) and the list goes on and on (mostly guilty).
It seems each time the Tokyo Government shuts down the tuna trading are they reopen with a new restriction. Back in 2008 visitors where restricted to a viewing area. In 2010, they have limited the number of visitors to 140 visitors a day on a first-come-first-serve basis and it looks like they must all wear some sort of yellow smock to identify them as guests. And I can’t see from photos, but maybe they have to remove their shoes too. Whatever the case, the Tsukiji Fish Market is a fun little place to spend your pre-dawn hours when visiting Tokyo.
A friend of a friend (Ayako Hirayama) writes for the Daily Yomiuri and was kind enough to stick a quote of mine in her article about the latest reopening of the Tsukiji auction to visitors. Lately I have had good luck with Japanese outlets. First the English language Metropolis magazine asked for some photos of the Tokyo Marathon and now this. ありがとう! Read the fish market HERE.
Selling the frozen tuna at the Tsukiji Fish Market last March.
Talking frozen tuna with the locals.
Mail from Tokyo
A 外人 under four hours.
A few weeks ago a slow boat floated across the Pacific Ocean. Among it’s contents a box full of things I thought I would never see again.
It all started at dinner one night in Tokyo. I was about to leave the wet cool weather of the Tokyo Spring and head directly into the hot season of SE Asia. My luggage consisted of a REI daypack and my Timbuk2 messenger bag. The long sleeves, pants, running shoes, running gear and Japanese collectibles were not coming along. During one of my final nights in Japan I asked my friend Satoko to help me find a post office in her neighborhood. Memory tells her there is a post office one block north of the Umegaoka station near her apartment. She writes down the kanji symbols for post office and tells me to look for the symbol for Japanes Post (a “T” with a bar over the top ” 〒” ).
That night on the way home I walk past a local food market and rummage through their broken down boxes. Hoping to find something just the right size and authentically Japanese I settle on a box from a case of instant noodles. The locals give me sideways stares as we pass each other on the sidewalk that night, but what else is new. Back at Satoko’s homestead I pack that noodle box full of things I could do without for the next month. Among it’s contents my dirty marathon shoes, my dirty marathon shorts, my dirty marathon shirt, some books, some strange Japanese cosmetic items, wall art, yard art and some other nick nacks.
The following morning I head out in search of 〒. I arrive at the intersection we identified at dinner. The next fifteen minutes was like a cruel game of “hot and cold”. I see an red mailbox proudly displaying 〒. “You’re getting warmer.” I look for other 〒 signs on the buildings. “You’re getting cooler.” My mind and my legs wonder down the block a bit. “Now you’re freezing.” I anchor myself back to the 〒 mailbox. “You’re warm again.” In China I would feel confident enough in my language skills that I could ask for directions. In Japan I reach into my pocket and pull out a piece of paper with Satoko’s kanji. The next person to walk past me is getting a good look at this piece of paper, my box and my where is this place face. A nice looking middle aged women wearing the latest fashions stops before me. Gives me a quizative look. Glances over my shoulder. Points to the glass door behind me and smiles. I pivot to the door. Her high heels click away down the sidewalk. I stick my face on the door and peer in. “You’re burning up.” I’ve been standing in front of the damn place the entire time.
I walk inside and quickly try to pick up on the protocol. Standard post office fare. People holding letters and boxes standing in line. Unlike post offices in America, the workers seem polite and are busy with fast hands and quick shuffling feet. I’m thinking to myself, who is going to be the lucky one to service me. The workers all know I am here. They are calculating how many people are in line, how much postage each person in line has, where I am in line and how they can pace themselves (faster or slower) in order to not pull my number. In my head I place my bets on who its going to be. My money is on the shortest of the ladies with her hair flipping out from under her hat. My experience playing the who is going to be making my burrito at Freebirds pays off… and the short Betty Rubble it is. We start things with the easy stuff… postcards addressed to the US. No problem. But I’ve got this big ole box and she knows it. One postcard, two postcards, three postcards. Here is my total on her calculator. “Arrigato gozaimasu.” There is a moment where she thinks that is going to be it. Maybe I’ll take the box with me. I see it in her eyes. But I crash that hope when I push the box forward and hand her a piece of paper with a US address on it. She counters my move by sliding over a form paper with a bunch of kanji on it. Touché. I complete the form to the best of my ability. The transaction is not complete until after I decide if I want it to travel fast or slow. So after making some plane noises and plane hand shapes while shaking my head “no” followed by boat noises and shapes with my head saying “yes” and my mouth saying “hai” she knows exactly what I want.
Four weeks later I return to the states. No box. One week later I return to Texas. No box. Mother’s Day. No box. Did I used to have a pair of running shorts with a liner? No box. Did I buy that cleavage message thing in Japan? No box.
Then one day it arrives. The memories of Japan rush into my mind. The aroma of six-week old marathon worn clothes rush into my nose. That same week I receive my official results from the Tokyo Marathon. They must have been on the same boat and my faith in the 〒 is restored.
がんばって!
Number 5465 out of 22789. がんばって!
Hakone Dochu Yajikita No Yu
Here(finally)is a video from my ryokan in Hakone. Guests must remove your shoes upon entering and place them in a locker, place a 100 yen coin in the slot, take out the key and get your coin and shoes back when you leave (photo of entrance and lockers). Oblivious to this custom I stepped onto the first level to take off my shoes. The two ladies working the front door about flipped. They geeked out, speed into some Japanese and shewed me back down. Me ” so sorry, so sorry”. The one lady had her standard English but could not address me in this situation. With enough hand gestures, and her reading from her handmade english phrase book we got through the whole ordeal and I am thankful for her patience. I should have learned this lesson when I did the same thing at Satoko’s place a few days earlier. But now I know, and now I enter all Japanese buildings much slower and deliberate.
I will be downloading some more photos from Hakone, but here is a good start.
Hakone Dinner
This beer and noodle cup was dinner one night. The noodles 250 yen, the can of beer 258 yen. It ws a good beer and okay noodles.
Japan is full of light easy to drink beers. They can be a little pricey, especially because they go down so smooth. This particular night I had to return to the 7 Eleven for a few more cans of Yebisu.
Hakone Lunch
This black egg (bag of five for 500 yen) was lunch on the side of the mountain one day. The eggs come up from the rope car station via rope elevator, are boiled in the hot spring and consumed by tons of tourists. The whole area smells of rotten eggs. But it’s not the eggs emitting the smell but the sulfur gas from the springs. Don’t stand in one place too long with your knees locked or you will get dizzy. Do pull your neighbors finger for a laugh.
Japan Photos. Some of my favorites.
Here are some of my favorite photos thus far on the trip.
Some of the blooms began.
Site of one of my Japanese etiquette lessons.
I just love these little guys.
Hiroshi, myself and Satoko.
My first takoyaki (fried squid balls) joint... so good.
Random Tokyo vending machine at night.
Tsukiji Fish Market.
42K in a frog suit... good stuff.
Tokyo Marathon course. Amazing
Old Cedar trail on the way to Edo,
Owakudani visitors in line for boiled onsen egg.
In Japan
These are a few things I noticed while in Japan. This is not a social commentary just a few observations. If you have any you would like to add in the comments I would love to hear them.
Japannaise
- Japanese really like mayonnaise.
- The last train of the night is, like Satoko said, ridiculously crowed with ridiculous amounts of people with poor drinking balance.
- A homeless man on the train smells just as bad as a homeless man in NYC. Just a little different and there are more people around to smell him.
- Japanese men spend a lot of money on hair products.
- There are n0 bugs in Tokyo.
Knee Hi
- Japanese girls knees do not get cold and they like boots.
- Japanese women can do anything in heels (run, bicycle, balance on the subway, etc).
- You can buy a can of beer for 250 yen at 7-Eleven.
- People are always late. Forcing them to run everywhere.
- Most people own at least 12 umbrellas. Most of those umbrellas are transparent.
Real Comedians
- Japanese network TV is dominated by the variety shows and not very good. So Japanese people read more. It’s a good thing. American TV is too good. Americans read less.
- Japanese network TV has about five celebrities, and they are on ever channel.
- On the train, the seat next to me is often open.
- I am not always handed the promotional items outside of train station exits.
- Do not look at your neighbors screen in the cyber cafe. It can get as raunchy as the homeless peoples internet searches in the Dallas Public Library.
Hair Tonic, Hair Liquid, Both?
Sampson Juice
If any of you know my love for hair tonic in men’s, I mean gentleman’s restrooms then you will know what a treat tonight was for me.
After a hard day trekking around Hakone Japan (full post to come later) I headed back to my ryokan for a soak in the onsen before dinner. When after my long soak in the numerous tubs did I find to my suprise and delight both a bottle of hair tonic and hair liquid before the vanity mirror. There are few physical items in this world that make me feel more like a man then a few good slaps of hair tonic from an old fashioned men’s room… or a Japanese onsen for that matter.
And since the onsen comes complimentary with my ryokan, tomorrow for breakfast… H.J. and eggs.
Nikko Japan
Hiroshi, Satoko and Jason
On Tuesday following the marathon Satoko and I took a train out to Nikko. This area is tucked away in a mountain region about two hours train ride north from Tokyo. The area is know for its natural beauty with a combination of scenic views, deep lakes, waterfalls, hot springs (onsen), temples and shrines.
Our tour guide for the day was local celebrity and professional hockey play Hiroshi Shiratori. (more…)
Korea vs. Japan news
Just a little video as Tokyo prepares for todays big Japan vs. Korea game in the World Baseball Classic. This is from a local morning show and a peak out the window of my hotel. As you can see I am outside of the city, in Tokyo Bay next door to the race expo and marathon finish line.
If the video does not work please let me know. It’s my first video post and I do not have a flash player on my mini.
